It’s almost that time again to get the mothballs family RV out and have a little fun!
As April approaches, calls to me begin to accumulate from concerned RVers. I’m a mobile VR technician and every spring I come across the same question from RVers across the country: “What can I do to prepare my unit for the camping season?” So I want to pass on some RV information and some simple tips to hopefully save you time and money and help you get your rig ready to roll.
Awnings
On a sunny day, spread out your awning to air it out. Trapped moisture may have caused mold that will damage and stain the fabric, so use a hose to rinse it off. You can scrub a vinyl cloth with a mild dish detergent; For canvas or fabric, your favorite RV dealer can provide a suitable cleaner. Let it dry completely before retracting it.
Run the canopy in and out several times to ensure smooth operation and verify that the travel locks are working and that all hardware is secure.
Propane system
This is a good time to fill your bottles or tanks and check for leaks. Spray a leak detector (available at hardware stores) or soapy water around the fittings and regulator. If you see bubbles (or smell propane at any time), you should have the system tested. Don’t take chances with your propane system, it’s not worth it!
Never overfill your propane tanks. Propane expands and contracts dramatically with changes in temperature. Any container containing propane should not be more than 80% full to allow for expansion.
A major problem that arises from overfilled tanks is this: all RV appliances use propane vapor (not liquid) from the tank, and propane contains a certain amount of oil. If a tank is too full, liquid (and oil) can get into the system and do really nasty things. I often see that oil ruins the regulators and any oil that goes through the regulator can clog the bus lines. If you ever see a ‘pulsing’ flame on top of your stove, or if your oven works great on a warm night but not a cold one, you may have oil in the lines!
Batteries
Batteries are delicate things. Some last for years and others are raised shortly after being installed. After charging the batteries, I use a hydrometer to check the specific gravity. Any auto parts store sells easy-to-use hydrometers. Follow the instructions and test your batteries. Remember: a 25 point difference between cells means you have a bad cell and the battery is “kaput”.
If the batteries are okay, clean the connections, make sure they are tight, and apply an anti-corrosion spray.
DC electrical system
After the batteries are connected, check your accessories and DC lights. If it doesn’t work, check the fuses and connections. If you find a blown fuse, you should investigate. Mice, squirrels, and other creatures can build nests, chew on wires, and cause all sorts of problems that you’ll need to correct. Never increase the value of the fuse; You could turn a small problem into a big one!
If everything seems fine, make sure the converter is working properly. Do this using a voltmeter to check the battery voltage. When a battery is fully charged, it should read around 12.6 volts. When you plug into the power outlet and the converter starts to work, you should see a 1 to 1.5 volt surge and if the lights on the bus get a little brighter you should be good to go.
Air conditioning electrical system
With the bus plugged into the ground, you can check the electrical plugs with a hair dryer, providing a good test load on the system. Check the GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter). It’s that little button that you play with (usually while sitting) in the bathroom. Press the test button and the reset button should appear. If so, press the reset button again until it clicks. If not, you have a problem and need to be fixed. Don’t race with a faulty GFCI. These little gadgets save many lives every year! They are there to protect you and your family.
Sewer valves
These are one of the most overlooked items in an RV. Before pouring water into tanks, make sure all valves move freely. Anything other than medium pressure to operate them might suggest it’s time to use new ones. A broken black tank sewer valve is RV Tech’s nightmare and a great expense to the customer. These valves cost less than $ 10 and are generally quite easy to replace.
Water systems
If your unit was winterized with good quality antifreeze, your water lines may be sufficiently sanitized, but filling the holding tank and using bleach tablets or another sanitizing product is a good idea. I wash mine every year. It’s good practice, especially if you use a variety of watering stations during the season.
Another thing that is often overlooked during winterization is changing the position of the water heater bypass valve. There are a few different types of bypass valves, so learn how yours works. Valves in the wrong position will cause a lot of pain and can give the impression that the water heater is not working properly.
The water pump is one of the best tools to alert you to a leak in your water system. Press the system and listen for a few minutes. If the pump remains silent and does not cycle on and off, the system is most likely fine. If it goes on and off, get your flashlight and check the water lines and fittings for leaks. The only two things I know that will cause the pump to cycle on and off is a water leak or a faulty switch on the pump.
** An air compressor is helpful for the following tips …
Water heater (pilot model)
On a pilot light model (one that is manually lit), flush any debris from the chimney (the opening where the fire starts) and the burner assembly. Even a cobweb on the burner assembly can turn off your water heater, so make sure it’s clean! Wear safety glasses and stand to the side while doing this.
Next, make sure the water heater is full and turn on the pilot light. If it turns on quickly and stays on after you release the button, great! However, if the flame is small, the hole may need to be cleaned. If the flame is good but doesn’t stay lit, unfortunately you may need an RV technician to install a new thermocouple or gas valve.
If all is well, turn the gas valve to “ON”. With all propane appliances we look for a nice blue flame. Let the water heater come up to temperature and run some hot water until it turns on again. If you do, you are good to go!
Water heater (auto light or DSI direct spark ignition)
As with pilot models, clean thoroughly with air. Make sure there is water in the tank and the switch is in the “OFF” position.
The only real part of this water heater that can be repaired by the owner is the electrode, the device that lights up when turned on. Check the gap between the electrode and ground (most units require the gap to be 3/16 inch). If the gap needs to be adjusted, you may want to replace it. You can adjust it yourself, but be careful not to break the porcelain around the electrode. If you do, you will definitely need a new one.
Turn on the heater. When it reaches the temperature and turns off, run some hot water. If the heater comes back on, the flame is a nice blue, the water overheats and goes out again, you’re done.
If you turn on your water heater and it has difficulty turning on or it turns on and off quickly, you will probably need to contact a technician.
Oven
There are really no owner-serviceable parts on today’s ovens. One thing I suggest is to turn it on and cycle it multiple times to see if it turns on and off on demand. At the beginning of the season, I run mine for about 10 minutes with the door and windows open. This gives the oven a bit of exercise and ventilates the vents in case little critters are starting a family in there!
Fridge
Again, there aren’t many owner-serviceable parts, but there are a few things we can do to make sure it’s working properly. When refrigerators run on propane, the chimney is covered in flaky brown soot which, if not removed, can fall on the burner assembly and shut down the refrigerator.
You will need to remove the lower outer cover to get to the burner assembly. With the refrigerator “OFF”, use your air compressor to blow up the chimney to remove the soot. Blow out the burner assembly completely. While you’re there, look up inside the refrigerator compartment for any blockages. During long periods of disuse, squirrels, birds and other creatures can make nests there and block the airways. It is essential to keep this area clear: if the refrigerator cannot breathe, it will not work properly.
Air conditioning units
On the roof, visually inspect the condition of the cover and fins on the rear of the air conditioner. If the cover is cracked or broken, replace it immediately. If it breaks while driving, it can cause serious damage to the internal working parts of the air conditioner (not to mention the problems created when you land!)
The weather often damages the radiator at the back of the air conditioning unit. Like refrigerators, these units need to breathe, so if the aluminum fins are flattened or pushed in, they need to be straightened. There are inexpensive kits that you can buy to do this; it just takes a good day and a little patience.
If you have a good power source in your RV, turn on the air conditioner and let it run for 10-15 minutes to make sure it cools down.
Wheels and brakes
Every year someone unnecessarily burns out a wheel bearing in your unit and it is very expensive to repair. The standard that I preach with great conviction is this: “Have your bearings and brakes checked every 2 years or every 10,000 miles.” If you follow that rule, in most situations, you will be safe from harm.
Remember, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
Well, there you have it: some easy-to-do tasks that can save you a lot of money at the repair shop. So, take on the RV vacation you’ve always dreamed of and – HAVE FUN THERE!