This is a basic guide to some of the changes you can make to the track to try and improve your chassis. All of these changes should be used only after you have the basic setup, which includes setting the toe, stagger, camber, and weight percentages. These basic configuration adjustments should be done at home during the week. Your chassis manufacturer should provide you with a starting point for configuration. Over time, this starting point can change based on what works best for your driving style, different tracks, and different track conditions.
If it’s loose at the entrance
1. Reduce air in RR
2. Switch to a smaller LF
3. Switch to a harder RF
4. Decrease LF tilt
5. Add Cross Weight
6. Reduces the weight of the forehead
7. Decrease rear stepping
If it’s loose at the output
1. Increase RF tilt
2. Change to a softer tire in LR
3. Move LR in
4. Increase the cross weight
5. Decrease rear stepping
If the chassis pushes when entering
1. Change to a softer RF tire
2. Switch to a bigger LF
3. Increase rear stepping
4. Lower RF air pressure
5. Increase the slope of the LF
6. Move LR out
If the chassis pushes out
1. Decrease RF Tilt
2. Reduce cross weight
3. Move LR out
4. Change to a harder tire in LR
5. Increase rear stepping
6. Reduce frontal stagger
7. Increase the weight of the forehead
If the chassis is binding
1. Increase front and rear stagger
2. Switch to harder tires
3. Increase air pressure
4. Decrease cross weight
5. Increase rear weight
6. Take out the RR
4 wheel drift
1. Lower air pressures
2. Move the RR in
3. Switch to softer tires
4. Decrease left weight
5. Raise VCG (raise seat)
There are many useful tools and gauges made to help racers with the setup of their racing kart chassis. Most of these, like the Longacre Caster/Camber Gauges, Longacre Computerscales, Accutoe Pro Laser Toe Gauge, Longacre Air Gauges, Longacre Durometer, and Tire Stagger tape measures are available at most go-kart shops, including mine: http:/ /smokinjoeracing.com